Mexico 04

Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta

Grand Circle Travel

15 Day Extended Vacation

December 16 to December 30, 2004

To speed up downloading time I have used small pictures in place of larger ones.  However, please "Click" on any small one and a larger picture will appear.  Click the "Back" button to return to this story.  

Mexico, our southern neighbor, is about one-fifth the size of the United States.  Its ethnic composition is mestizo (Amerindian-Spanish) 60%, Amerindian or predominantly Amerindian 30%, white 9%, and other 1%.  Catholics comprise about 89% of the population but it is said that Mexico is 100% Guadalupanas, devotees to the Virgin Mary.  The population of Mexico is estimated at 105 million (end 2004.) Mexico City, the capital, has over 21 million inhabitants while Guadalajara's metropolitan area, where we visited, is estimated to be more than 7 million.

We began our journey flying from Washington's Dulles Airport on Thursday, December 16.   Enroute we changed planes in Dallas and then flew direct to  Guadalajara.  A Grand Circle representative met us at the airport and took us to our hotel.  We were met there by Program Director Roberto Deyra who gave us packets and briefed us on Friday's events. 

Our hotel in Guadalajara was the Hotel De Mendoza.  It was located in the heart of the city and on a quiet side street.  Dotty and I enjoyed the serenity of the hotel and its courteous and friendly staff.

These scenes were taken from the balcony of our hotel room.  The church steeple belongs to the church next door.  Notice the donkey shaped plant holder beside the swimming pool.

This is Santa Maria de Gracia, Guadalajara's oldest church.  It was small but comfortable and well maintained; simple but reverent.  We attended Mass there four times, each time with a different Priest.

During our city orientation walk on day 2, and only a block from our hotel, this young beggar approached us for money.  When I attempted to take her picture she hid behind the legs of those in our group.  After putting a bill in her cup she became cooperative.  The young girl in the picture on the right was in a restaurant where we had lunch.  Her parents encouraged her to pose for me.

This three dimensional wall frieze depicts those who founded the city.  It is located at the rear of the Degollado Theater and only a block from our hotel.

These scenes were just a bit further down the road.  Click on any of them for more details.

Back closer to the hotel we encountered the Santa.  He was waiting with a photographer nearby for children and pictures.  Friendly fellow.  One of the many shops along the commercial street.  Pictures on the right were taken nearby.

Still on the commercial street we encounter this canary trainer.  For a small contribution he has the bird pick your fortune from a box.  Dotty gets her fortune but fails to have it translated.  Help!

These pictures are from the 18th century Government Palace.  The murals were done by Guadalajara's most celebrated painter, Jose Clemente Orozco.  Read more at the larger pictures.

Our favorite Cathedral, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Guadalajara.  See the larger pictures to more fully appreciate why.  It was consecrated to the Virgin Mary in 1618 and is considered to be a most important Cathedral in Mexico's history.  There are nine altars and three chapels.  The floor is made of mesquite wood and is over 80 years old.  The stained windows over the main altar are German.

In the hotel conference room, Roberto gave us a handout of frequently used Mexican expressions and helped with pronunciations.  Having been brought up in the states through high school, Roberto has a mastery of both languages that enables him to convey his message in an easily understood manner.

Our Welcome Dinner was held at the Manola Restaurant.  See if you can identify anyone by viewing the larger pictures.

As you see from the previous pictures we were entertained with Mariachi music.  Two children of the lead performer entertained us, then his wife came up to dance with him.  Check the larger pictures to see why the daughter turned in surprise.

At the beginning of day 3, Our group posed for this picture facing the Degollado Theater with the Cathedral in the background.  The names are posted there.  Gads, I hope I got them all correct!   There were 32 on our tour.

After the picture above was taken we were off by bus to visit the Expiatorio Church.  Built in the early 1900s, it is the creation of an Italian architect and is neo-gothic in style.

More pictures taken inside.

We were privileged to witness the beginning of this wedding while at the church.

Next stop was the Casa de Las Artesanias de Jalisco (House of the Artisans of the state of Jalisco.)  The pictures below are in the museum part of the building.

Inside the crafts area a multitude of colorful offerings were on display.

During our drives around town we captured these important monuments.

Our next excursion of day 3 was a drive through the first private university in Mexico.  A private citizen gave $5,000,000 to start the university in 1940.  It is famous for its medical school and has many students from America.   The university has an enrollment of 25,000.  Since the buildings and classes were closed for the holidays we were able only to drive through the campus and visit the cactus garden.

Lunch time at Los Arcos!  And what a colorful, enjoyable and fun lunch it was.  Come inside and see why Dotty wears a sombrero.

We returned to our hotel and had time to freshen up before going to a lecture on "Mexico, Yesterday and Today."  It was given by Agueda Ramirez who spoke excellent English and gave a most interesting talk.  She began at 2,000 BC Mesoamerica and ended with Mexico's first real democracy in 2,000 AD.  We left with a new appreciation of Mexico's contributions.  Their understanding and use of astronomy and early civilizations impressed us most.

After dinner at the hotel we decided to attend Mass at the church next door.  Not knowing the schedule we arrived late but since there was another Mass to follow we stayed and caught the end of this Wedding Mass.

The following Mass was one which celebrated this young lady reaching the age of 15 (Quinceanera,) a special time deserving special attention.  At right are dresses made especially for these celebrations.  Click the pictures for more.

After Mass we ventured onto the streets to see how the locals were celebrating the Christmas season.

Santas were everywhere, often no more that 50 yards apart.  That's the beautiful Degollado Theater at right.

Day 4 was an opportunity to experience more of Mexico through the special optional tour arrange by Roberto.  By bus we drove to the outskirts of Guadalajara to Tonala, an important craft center.  The place was packed with every conceivable craft.  In the third picture Dotty sports the scarf purchased from the vendor in the left picture.  This Indian lady was one who freely allowed me to take the picture of her and her child.

After shopping until we were ready to drop, our bus took us to a local rodeo.  These cowboys put on a good show.

Dotty just had to have her picture taken with the "Head Cowboy."  He sure acted as though he was in charge.  These shots were of our group taken in the bleachers.

Lunch was at the Camino Real Restaurant which had one of the most lavish buffets ever.  Everything was outdoors in beautiful weather with musical entertainment.

That afternoon Dotty took in the included Ceramic Painting Class held at our hotel while I worked on newly taken pictures on my laptop.  

Mass followed dinner at our hotel.  As we left Mass, I paused to admire this motorcycle.  There's an interesting story at the larger pictures.

Monday, day 5 of our tour, included a visit to the Corona Brewery which we opted out of so we could indulge in our first rest.  Later that morning we joined some in our group to visit Liberty Market.  There Roberto purchased food which was then taken to a restaurant where it was cooked for us.  Our Mexican Cooking Class!

These scenes were from inside the market and restaurant where we ate.  This place was huge!  More than 1,000 vendors selling everything from produce, clothing, electronics, and more.  It spreads across three square blocks.

Dinner that evening was at one of the "walk-to" "Dine-Around" restaurants, La Rinconada.  We selected freshly slaughtered cow's head soup as the appetizer.  Just kidding!  Those were at the market where we were earlier.  

On Tuesday we left by bus to a highly anticipated visit to Lake Chapala, a  popular residential site for tens of thousands of expatriate Americans.  50% of Guadalajara's water comes from the lake, some 40 miles distant.  The lake is at an elevation of 5,200 feet and is 65 by 15 miles in size.

After our brief visit in and around Chapala, we stopped for a look at the lake side community of Ajijic. 

A highlight of our stop in Ajijic was meeting artists Enrique Velazquez and Belva McIrvin in their art studio.  They graciously volunteered to have their picture taken.  Belva has a brother who lives in Virginia; she is from Colorado.  I have included one painting by each from their bilingual 2004 calendar.

The included lunch was at the La Nueva Posada restaurant right on the shores of the lake.  The restaurant is reputed to have the best Margaritas in the world.  From our somewhat limited experience, we concur!  The food was excellent and after eating we were treated to a most interesting talk by Judy King, expatriate who knows absolutely everything about the area.

Wednesday, day 7, was another interesting day.  It began with a stop at a ceramic factory where we saw how pottery was created then painted. 

Dotty has found her favorite collectable; an owl.  There was more to see in the factory retail store.  At the larger pictures you will see what we purchased.

Next stop was the town of Tlaquepaque, a few miles south of the city.  There we experienced the highlight of the day; a visit to a gallery filled with the exquisite artistry of Guadalajara resident Sergio Bustamante.  Working in paper mache, ceramics, bronze and other metals, etc. he creates some of the most interesting objects and jewelry we've ever seen.  Be sure to view these pictures in their larger size.

Across the street from the gallery was the Craft Museum and Gift Shop.  The shop owner is displaying one of the three dimensional beaded crafts.

Along Independence Avenue,  there were many shops filled with fascinating artifacts.  How about this monster chair!

I first tried to take pictures of the two Indian children (behind the bicycle wheel) but they ran to the wall and faced it.  Their mother refused to have her picture taken as well.  The parent in the center picture was delighted to have her twins photographed.  Another sidewalk chair just waiting for tired tourists.

Lunch was at the El Patio restaurant.  Good food and a delightful ambiance.

On Thursday, most of our group boarded the bus for an optional tour of Mexico's fabled "Rounded Pyramids."  They were in use during the period between 200 BC to 700 AD.  Excavation of the ruins began in 1976.  These pictures are of the town of Teuchitlan which is near the pyramids and houses the museum.

Inside the museum is a painting of what the site of the pyramids might have looked like and a picture of it now.  At right are some of the ceramic figurines that were found at the site.

The archaeological site is called Guachimontones (round pyramids.)  Our guide, Sagrario Almaraz, is in the blue vest.  She also gave us a presentation in the museum. 

At left is what is believed to have been a playing field for a popular ball game.  In the center is one of the pyramids not yet excavated.  

As we boarded our bus near the entrance, I noticed this lone horse surrounded by birds in the distance.  Immediately thereafter, a herd of horses was driven up the road beside us.  Just above us they were all stopped in a small group.  Perhaps they were being taken to a new location for grazing?

Lunch was just outside town at the Monte Carlo Restaurant, another good food place with  pleasant surroundings. 

Not long after our return to the hotel we were treated to a Children's Folklore Show.  While the temperatures were perfect, the wind on the hotel terrace made for some interesting dress malfunctions.  The children, wearing at least a half dozen different costumes, performed magnificently.

These scenes were part of a skit where the tussle over a piece of pottery ends with it being broken.  As a token of apology the young man presents a rose.

More of the cast of performers and a particularly colorful display.

One entertaining event after another and a "Home Hosted Dinner" capped off day 8.  Eight of us boarded two taxis which were dispatched to take us to the home of Pepe and Marie Bosch.  After becoming acquainted we were invited into the dining room for dinner.  Marie had worked all day preparing the delicious meal; the chicken slowly cooked in her special cookware.  Her spinach soup was especially delicious.  Names are included with the larger pictures.

Friday morning, December 24 found us at the "Oasis de La Ninez" (Children's Oasis.)  This would normally be considered an orphanage but the majority of these children do have at least one parent; somewhere.  There are about 115 children in this permanent shelter for abandoned and abused children.  Grand Circle Travel sponsors the shelter though its foundation.  See the larger pictures for more information.

After our brief visit at the shelter we were off on our included tour of Tequila.  In the distance is the Tequila volcano, the next picture shows the cork used to stop the lava flow many years ago (according to an authority.)  The entrance to the town has a statue surrounded by agave plants.  Agave is the plant from which tequila is made.  Next is the town square.

These pictures were taken inside the Jose Cuervo tequila distillery.  Would you believe, a Christmas tree made of agave plants!

Guy Larry beside one of the sculptures; the company mascot, and an altar for the workers.

These are small agave plants.  Next is a part of a mural in the distillery showing how the agaves are prepared.  Agaves ready to be processed, and in the oven.

This machine squeezes out the juice then the agave fibers are loaded onto a waiting truck.  The fibers are used in making paper products and for a variety of other purposes, including cattle feed.  

These pictures explain and show some of the distilling process and aging.

Larger storage containers and one of the original Cuervo vehicles.

At left is the quality control center.  Mixing Margaritas for our group.  Sergio Bustamante figures in the distillery gift shop. 

This was our lunch restaurant just outside Tequila.  These scenes were from our table looking out through the windowless side.

We all enjoyed a Christmas Eve dinner at the Chez Pierre Restaurant.  They had stayed open, just for us, and closed immediately after we left.  Two of the cooks, two waiters and the entertainer took a moment after we had been served to accept our appreciation for a fine meal and their selflessness to serve us instead of being with their own families.  

These three tables held the Grand Circle Travel Christmas Eve revelers.

Christmas Day was on our own except for a departure briefing and cocktail party in late afternoon.  Everyone left the tour the following morning except seven of us who would extend in Puerto Vallarta.  

Sunday morning, day 11, we boarded our bus at 8:30 a.m. for the 228 mile, nearly 6 hour ride, to our next destination; the beach.  As we drove out of Guadalajara, because the traffic was very light, we noticed the pretty tree lined streets and general cleanliness of the city.

Once out of the city, habitation began to thin quickly and was almost non existent for a great portion of the trip.  Agave fields faded into mountainous jungles.  About 65 miles from the coast we began to see planted fields and houses again.  I captured the picture of this crowded pickup at a stop light not far from our destination.

We had heard about Mexico's colorful cemeteries but this was the first one we saw.  These pictures were shot as we passed by at a pretty good clip.  Just a short distance from our hotel was the bull fighting ring, popular there as elsewhere in Mexico.  Our arrival at the Canto Del Sol Beach and Tennis Resort coincided with check in time so we didn't wait long to get our rooms.  The lobby was decorated with a real tree for the full house of visitors, many American.

Monday morning the bus that brought us from Guadalajara took us on a tour of the city and along the beach to the south.  Our first stop was at Neptune Plaza which had a golf course, boat dock, and a number of Time Share units.

We bypassed the city center to first see some of the sights to the south. Our first stop was above this picturesque waterside resort.  Just after our driver took our picture, a local came up with his live Iguana.  Not the kind of pet I'd care to have!

The Le Kliff Restaurant, just a bit further south, sure provided some interesting views.  As you can see from these pictures it was appropriately named.  I captured a flock of birds flying in formation at water level in the last picture.

This is the site of John Huston's famous 1963 movie, The Night of the Iguana.  Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor starred in the movie, found romance and later married.  The plaque tells The Legend of Mismaloya, the name of this famous cove.

Back in the center of the city of Puerto Vallarta, we strolled the streets, visited the Cathedral, and enjoyed the beautiful day.

At left you can clearly see the density of the area and then in the second picture how quickly it thins at the mountains edge.  Dotty managed to find just the right ring to match a previously purchased bracelet.  This little girl and her mom appeared to be waiting for a bus.  Click on the picture to see that smile.

Along the beach in town were these statues, and, of all things, a Hooters Restaurant.

Our hotel was very nice.  Everything was included.  All the food you wanted at almost any time of the day, all beverages, swimming, beach and even the entertainment.  It was a pleasant and relaxing place.

Here's Dotty at near sundown as I shoot to the north.

The first picture was taken just outside our patio door, the others to the west at sunset.

The first two were shot looking south, then at this daredevil out front, and finally a Norwegian Cruise ship departing from the dock to the north.

Our tour included two optional dining nights in either the Mexican or Italian specialty restaurants.  On this night we had dinner at the Italian restaurant and afterwards enjoyed the tail end of the outdoor Copacabana stage show. 

The Mexican restaurant on Wednesday night was our final time together as a group so we reminisced and lingered over our dinner.

Our departure on Thursday morning was simple, quick and easy.  We were taken by cab to the airport at Puerto Vallarta, assisted with our bags and departed for Dallas on time.  A transfer was made there in less than an hour and we were on our way home.  The trip was so smooth that we ended up driving back to our home near Charlottesville, VA instead of spending the night with family in the DC area.

This trip was special because of the friendly people who were our tour partners.  It was enjoyable because of the pace and variety of interesting things to see and participate in.  It was rewarding because we gained appreciation and respect for the culture of our neighbors to the south.  To each person with whom we had contact, we thank you for making this journey a memorable one.

Posted on the Internet on 1/12/05  Completed on 2/1/05.