Turkey 01
17 Day Cultural Heritage
Pacha Tours

June 1, 2001 - June 17, 2001

Preface:  Turkey has to be one of the most interesting places, among the many, that we have ever visited.  With a population exceeding 62 million, we found the people to be consistently friendly and helpful.  English was spoken widely so language was no barrier.  While the number of archaeological sites compares favorably with Italy and Greece, the most unique feature of this tour was the topography of Cappadocia.  On another note, this page uses "thumbnail" pictures to expedite loading but please take advantage of the opportunity to view each one in a larger format.  

Dotty and I began our flight at Dulles at noon.  After a short flight to JFK and several hours of waiting we boarded our flight to Istanbul, 4,538 miles away.  Because of security problems once we boarded, our time on the aircraft was 11 hours and 45 minutes.  From Istanbul we flew to Ankara, just 437 miles farther.  Dotty's luggage was there; mine was not.  It was almost 4 o'clock when we arrived at the five star Ankara Hilton Hotel.  Ankara is the capitol of Turkey, as you probably know, and is second only in size to Istanbul with nearly 4 million people.

We enjoyed a brief nap then a refreshing shower before joining our tour group and guide for drinks.  Neslie, our Turkish guide, was there eagerly waiting to meet the nine of us.  How nice, four couples and a bachelor touring Turkey on a 44 seat bus with a guide, driver and assistant.

After a great buffet dinner and conversation, we retired to our room.  We took the picture below of the skyline from our hotel room.

Next morning we faced this beautiful buffet breakfast in what was to be repeated many times throughout our stay in Turkey.  Who needs lunch after this!

We gathered at 8:30 for a lecture from Professor of Archeology, Engin Ozgen.  He gave a most interesting talk about the ancient history of Turkey and efforts to preserve and share their antiquities.  

Here we are with our bus, guide Neslihan Alkaya (Neslie), driver Okan Yayuzaslan at left and assistant Sadik Kabaran.  They were not only professional in every respect but did an outstanding job keeping us comfortable and happy during our journey throughout western Turkey.  Hot tea or apple juice, coffee and water were always at your pleasure.  We're off for the day!

After a short drive we arrived at the tomb of Ataturk, a WW1 army general and hero.  He is regarded as one of the world's greatest statesmen.  There were lots of very polite and curious school children at the site.  Not accustomed to westerners apparently, especially beautiful women, Dotty got lots of admiring looks.  Here she is outside the tomb.

At the same location was the Museum of Antolian Civilization dating from 7,500 B.C.  Dotty and the others on our tour are examining one of the exhibits there.

After lunch we had a leisurely ride to our destination, Cappadocia.  Neslie filled us full of interesting facts about Turkey and its people along the way.  She lamented the high taxes and corruption.  After the earthquake in August, 1999, the stock market dropped 75% overnight.  More than 17,000 people were killed.  The country is still recovering.  Crime is very low and 88% of Turks are literate.   Along the way we saw much of the manual farm labor which is often done by migrant laborers working seven days a week from sun up to sun down.  Their camps consisted of tents which were easily moved from one place to another

We arrived at the Kapadokya Inn just after 7 p.m.  Dinner was at 8:30 and my suitcase finally caught up with us at 11:30 p.m.  What a relief!

Next morning we were on our way to see the Goreme monastic caves.  We encountered tourists from many different countries.  I enjoyed practicing my Japanese.

Pictured below is our complete tour group as we begin our walking tour.  Please click on the thumbnail and I'll introduce you to everyone.

The pictures below represent some of the unique topography of the region.  Evolving from volcanic eruptions three million years ago, wind and weather have eroded the soft volcanic rock.  The shapes resemble pillars, cones, fairy chimneys and mushrooms.  Even the colors, from pink through yellow to russet browns make one believe they are on another planet.  People occupied the caves until not too many years ago.  Please click on any thumbnail to see the three enlarged pictures and gain some appreciation for this fantastic landscape.

Neslie arranged for us to visit the cave home of Hanif and her husband.  They spent one and a half years chiseling out the living and bedrooms.  There was a kitchen with modern appliances.  Here our group is seated in the living room with Hanif in the foreground.

We visited other interesting sites in the area, including the Black Halo church and Snake church.  Next on our agenda was the Valley of Ihlara where we climbed down 430 steps then back up the same way.  Ihlara is a large village situated on the banks of the Melendiz Dere, the river that cut the valley into a deep canyon.  The valley owes its significance to it being a favored retreat for Byzantine monks and early Christianity.

On the way back to our hotel we noticed mostly women (at least 90%) working hard in the fields.  Men could be seen in bars along the road playing backgammon.  Neslie explained that men don't get away with this life style in most of Turkey.  Donkeys provided the most common means of transportation and were passed often along the highway.

Dinner was nearby where we also enjoyed a Folk Show.  It was great fun dancing and socializing.  The gent below was letting us know that a Turkish wedding ceremony was about to be depicted.

Next, we had our turn!

Naturally there was a belly dancer who tried to entice me and the other guys up front for a dance.  Not on your life!

Tuesday was the day for rug shopping.  We saw thread being taken from the silk cocoons, spinning the thread, dying and finally being hand woven.  It was very interesting but had the effect of bringing on a strong desire to buy one of their beautiful rugs.  Dotty did!  An absolutely stunning Hereke which was shipped back home for us, duty and postage free.  Don't laugh too hard please!  Today this rug proudly greets at our foyer.

Prior to visiting our next site Dotty decides to take advantage of the unique "natural" Viagra sold only in Turkey.  OK, so I put her up to this!  Did it work?  You will never know.

At Ockonak, we saw one of the thirty something underground cities in the Cappadocia region.  The cities were the home to the thousands of Christians who retreated from Roman persecutions then later from Arab attack.  Ockonak held as many as 60,000 people and had 19 levels.

To alleviate the apprehensions of those who are concerned about medical care while touring Turkey let me relate our experiences.  Dotty became ill with a stomach problem when we reached our hotel in late afternoon.  Neslie came by to check on Dotty and suggested we call for a doctor.  He gave her a shot, medicine and connected an intravenous supply of liquid to counteract her dehydration.  Neslie was with us to help with any translation necessary and in fact didn't leave until 1 a.m. when the intravenous feeding was disconnected.  During that time the doctor visited twice and a technician two other times.  The total bill was 250,000 lira (about $250 U.S.).  We were please in every respect and particularly were grateful for Neslie's attention.  Dotty was feeling much better the next morning.

Having gone as far west as our tour takes us we begin driving southwest along an ancient camel trail used by Marco Polo.  Also known as the "Silk Route" there were caravan stops every 15 kilometers and dating to the 13th century.  We visited inside one.

As we approach the city of Konya, we were impressed with the nice apartments with their bright colors.  Also notable was the many brand new, but unoccupied, ones languishing because of the economic hard times.  Near Konya we visit a Mosque museum where Mohhamd's beard and old Korans are kept.  Everyone was very respectful.  Our shoes had to be left at the door way.

Our drive toward the coast continues and for about 250 miles we are in the mountains.  The highest point is 6,000 feet!  The temperature warms as we near the Mediterranean Sea and our hotel, the Antalya Renaissance Resort, another five star accommodation.  Notice the mountains in the background.  The food there was superb!

Thursday morning we head west along the coast and stop at Phaselis, the remains of a Roman city that dates back to 600 B.C.  The children seem to enjoy the site even more than we did.

After buying sandwiches for lunch in Kumluca, we drove along the coast on a narrow, winding road.  These pictures give an idea of what it was like.  Kinda spooky!

Once at dockside, we boarded our boat and launched on a two hour excursion in Kekova Bay. The architecture along the hill sides was interesting because of the way the structures were incorporated into the terrain (rocky).  We saw remains of a stone building dating back to the 7th Century B.C. and part of a city that was submerged by an earthquake many years ago.  The weather was beautiful and the water clear and calm, a perfect combination for a boat ride.  Dotty is cooling it in front while I enjoy a coke with our guide, Neslie.

On our return we stopped in the ancient city of Myra where we observed burial tombs carved into the mountain side.  Dotty is standing beside a caution sign for falling rocks just beside some of the tombs.  None fell while we were there!

Nearby we saw the 6th Century B.C. Greek theater that held 6,000 people.  It was used until 700 A.D.  Like I implied in the beginning of this page, antiquities were everywhere.

Friday morning and we were off to the city to visit the Antalya Archeology Museum.  Greeting us was Edys Ozgur, an Archaeologist who guided us through the museum.  Nearly 100 3rd and 2nd century B.C. statues brought in from the ancient trade city, Perge,  are in the museum.  It was difficult to imagine the time it took to reconstruct them after having been through earthquakes and the pieces strewn about and buried for centuries.  Edys is standing beside a carved stone burial vault (sarcophagus) for an adult while the smaller one was for a dog of a wealthy owner.

In the afternoon we visited Aspendos where the best preserved Roman theater in the world is located.  It was never under earth and was built 161 - 180 A.D.  Didn't take any pictures there?

Next was a quick stop at the Jewelry Outlet and Factory.  This time I couldn't pass up the bargains and bought Dotty two beautiful bangles.  Here she is doing some hard bargaining!

Still on the move, we visit ancient Perge.  Dotty is standing at the entrance to the city while our group is exploring the gymnasium and sauna.  Notice the passageways for water in the third picture.  Perge was abandoned from the 7th century A.D. until 1947 when excavations began.

On Saturday morning we are on our way again, heading northwest this time.  We continue to be impressed with the hospitable and friendliness of the Turks.  They appear optimistic and cheerful in spite of difficulties.  Our drive takes us over mountains again and the view of Antalya from above is beautiful.  We see lots of nomads along the highway, tending their goats and working about their tent homes.  As in the U.S., even in relatively modest homes, there is evidence of satellite TV as is the case in the picture below.

Farmers in this part of Turkey are prosperous with fertile land and short winters.  We stop for lunch in Denizli, a large textile city.  We stop next at the remains of Hierapolis dating from the late Hellenistic age to early Christian times.  Dotty and I are standing at the gate to the Agora which was a very busy place indeed around 20 B.C.

A short distance away is the "White Paradise", Pamukkale.  It is a hot springs with a high amount of calcium and other minerals which give it its white color.  Fascinating!

Our room in the five star Pamukkale Colossae isn't the largest we've been in but the hotel amenities are great.  We get to enjoy the thermal pool and bath plus the large outdoor pool below.  While she was at the pool I was treated to a 25 minute foot reflexology by the famous "Christian" from Romania.  

That night at dinner, Neslie bought wine and cake so we could all celebrate Doris' birthday.

Next morning we head for Aphrodisias where we visited the temple, agora and the best preserved ancient stadium in the world.  It has seats for 60,000!  Gladiators arrived at the closed end of the 832 foot long stadium while the lions came in from the opposite end.  Even chariots raced inside as it was 189 feet wide which gave the racers ample space to turn.

Aphrodisias was dedicated to the Goddess of Love and its school of sculpture was known throughout the ancient world.

Other ruins were impressive, particularly the theater at right below.

As we approached the city of Izmir, third largest with just over three million, we were again reminded of the economic plight of the country.  Literally dozens of apartment buildings like the one below stood empty.  The highway had been six lanes, divided and quite modern.  No speeding allowed!

Our room at the Izmir Hilton, another five star establishment, was comfortable.  Dotty quickly adapted to her surroundings and enjoyed them and the view looking out toward the harbor.

A nice buffet dinner at a window looking toward the harbor was the perfect spot to watch the beautiful sunset.  As it darkened we could see lights from the city and ships as they moved about.  After dinner we walked around in the general area of the hotel then went to the 31st (top) floor bar to view the city.

On Monday morning we headed south toward the city of Ephesus where we had been during our Greek tour in 1995.  The city dates to 1100 B.C. and had street lighting and hot and cold running water in houses.  During this visit the place was packed with tourists and the temperature reached 108 degrees F.  Thank goodness it was not humid.  Dotty is at the entrance and I, along with two other in our group, am checking out the "facilities."  All pictures on our digital camera from here until the end of the visit to Troy were accidentally erased.

After Ephesus we visited the site of St. John the Evangelist who lived to 100 plus.  He brought Mary to this place when she was 50.  She died there at age 64.  Next we drove up the 1,500 foot mountain to see the chapel dedicated to Mary.

On our way back to the hotel we stopped at a leather factory and saw a fashion show.  Dotty and I resisted the urge to buy one of the hundreds of leather jackets and coats.  Some of the others in our group did!

Back in Izmir Dotty and I walked across the street to visit the one Catholic Church in town.  It serves a Catholic population of about 1,300 Catholics.  A woman showed us around and seemed happy to have Americans visit.

On Tuesday morning we head north.  We have been surprised at the lack of public notice of religion.  There have been few noticeable calls to prayer and we've not seen any public praying.  Neslie tells us that it is done primarily in private.

First stop is Pergamum, a center of culture and wealth dating to the 4th century B.C.  The most impressive site there is Asclepion, one of foremost medical centers of ancient times.  It was here that the famous physician, Galen, lived and practiced.  He wrote the first book on anatomy and it was used up to 1600 A.D.  At the center, treatment was often based upon analysis of the patient's dreams.  Musical performances were given as treatment for some.  It was one of the most interesting places we saw primarily because of the insight we gained into the early medical practices.

A short distance away we viewed the remains of the acropolis where the Temple of Trajan was partially restored.  From this site we could observe the fields and development below.  Most noticeable were the thousands of olive trees, some of which were 18 inches in diameter and as old as 400 years.

Father up the road we stopped at Troy, immortalized in Homer's Illiad.  Nine city levels were buried there over the centuries.  Homer's level was 6  and existed from 1800 to 1250 B.C.  We walked around much of the area then stopped at the entrance to take this shot of the famous Trojan horse.

We arrived early evening at our hotel in Canakkale at the entrance to the Sea of Marmara.  The bloodiest battle of WWI took place near our hotel as approximately 600,000 Brits and Aussies died during the battle for control of the Dardanelles. They are the narrow straits that mark Asia and Europe and connect the Aegean Sea with the Sea of Marmara. 

After dinner we walked along the waters edge and marveled at the throngs of people, including small children, who were socializing and enjoying the cool night air.  Even after 11 p.m. the street was still packed with people.  The picture below was taken from our hotel room.

We leave our hotel early Wednesday morning and take a short walk to the ferry where our bus is first in line.  It only took 30 minutes to cross over to the European side of Turkey known as Trace.  Sunflowers were everywhere along our easterly drive toward Istanbul.  We were never far from the Greek and Bulgarian borders.  Lots of new apartments and other development lined the highways.  Traffic became noticeably heavier as we approached the largest Turkish city of more than 10 million.

In the city we ate lunch in the courtyard pictured below and it was delicious.  The sycamore tree in the picture is more than 400 years old.  Temperatures were only in the 80s and the low humidity made it most pleasant in our outdoor setting.

Next we visited the 16th century A.D. Mosque of Suleymani.  There we encountered the young boys below who were all decked out for their circumcision.  It's a big deal and is celebrated by family and friends.  One can certainly think of better reasons for throwing a party!!

This is the 17th century A.D.  Blue Mosque and it is huge! 

Just opposite is St. Sophia, the 6th century A.D. Christian cathedral second only in size to St. Peters in Rome.  It is now a museum and is under constant renovation.

Would you look at our hotel!  The world famous Ciragan (pronounced sha ran) Palace Hotel on the Bosphorus.  Take a peek at the larger views to appreciate the luxury we were treated to.  Thank goodness we were paying the U.S. $650 per day posted in the room.  It had to have had the world's most sumptuous buffet breakfast, included of course.  We'll be surrounding by this luxury for the next four nights!

After a wonderful nights sleep we are ready to take in the Grand Bazaar.  One word describes, for me, the hundreds of shops and merchandise; unbelievable.  You weave through the crowds and shop owners hawking you to come in and buy things that you will find no where else.  Ha!

I bargained for a vest and got my price by convincing the guy that I could buy the same or better in the states for a certain price.  Dotty was equally successful in buying a woven handbag that she suspects might have been made in the U.S.

Next we take in the Topkapi Palace and see just how it was to live as a sultan.  Dating back to 1479, it is one of the oldest and largest palaces in the world.  Dotty is at the beautiful tree lined entrance in the picture below.

Lunch was inside the palace grounds and the restaurant was loaded with hundreds of Japanese and other nationalities.  The Harem was first on our tour after lunch.   We guys were terribly disappointed no one was on duty.  What's a Harem without women!

Pictured below are some of the sights we saw at the palace.  Click to enlarge and gain a better appreciation of the beauty of the place.

On our way back to the hotel several of us were coerced into being dropped off at Taksim, THE area where all the Turks in Istanbul shop.  It had to have been true as few other nationalities were seen there.  Dotty bought ear rings and enjoyed looking at so many different things.  We also ate in Haji Babba, a restaurant in the area and enjoyed it.  The picture below gives an idea of what the entire long street looked like.

On Friday we had a leisurely morning at the hotel then met at 10 a.m. for our boat cruise up the Bosphorus.  We went ashore to visit the Sadberk Hanim Museum, a small private mansion turned into a museum.  Lunch was nearby then we returned to our hotel by bus for a free afternoon.  These are some of the sights we experienced during our boat ride.

Our farewell dinner was bitter sweet as it would be the last time to be with our Pacha Tour crew.  The three of them took us in our bus to a restaurant overlooking the Galata bridge and Galata tower built in the 6th century A.D.  Dotty and I are waiting in the hotel to leave for dinner.  The other shots were taken inside the restaurant.  After dinner, back at the hotel, we bade goodbye to Neslie, Okan and Sadik.  One could not ask for a more professional or friendly team to travel with!

Saturday was our final full day and we were free to do whatever.  The weather could not have been nicer, 81 degrees and clear.  Dotty and I visited the palace that was part of the hotel complex and then she shopped at the hotel.  Bought a beautiful ring!  We had dinner that night in the hotel with Sam and Norma then retired to the room to pack for our trip home tomorrow.  The picture of the hotel shoe shine man captures the past and present day Turkey.

Memories abound of our journey to this ancient country.  The landscape of Cappadocia, the sheer number of archaeological sites, the friendliness and optimism of its people all rise to the fore of our experiences there.  We also enjoyed many excellent meals.  Dotty thinks that the Turkish men are the most handsome in all the world!

It was an awesome experience and we gained a new appreciation of our friends at the European Asian divide.  As has been the case with all of our travels, we leave with new friends who have enriched our lives and broadened our perspectives.