South American Cruise 03

Chilean Fjords and Magellan Strait

Grand Circle Travel

21 Day South American Tour/Cruise 2003

December 11 to January 1, 2004

Norwegian Crown Cruise

Ship departed from Valparaiso, Chile on Sunday, December 14

Cruise concluded in Buenos Aires, Argentina on December 28

Length: 616', Beam 92.5, Gross Tonnage: 34,242 tons

Cruising speed: 20 knots

Passengers: 1,104 and Staff: 550 (42 nationalities)

Dining crew; males primarily from Philippines, females from Romania, Latvia & Philippines.

Under TRAVELS, click on Chile, Falkland Islands, Uruguay and Argentina for other parts of this three week vacation.

To speed up downloading time I have used small pictures in place of larger ones.  However, please "Click" on any small one and a larger picture will appear.  Click the "Back" button to return to this story.  

The Crown was built in 1988, was previously owned by now defunct Royal Cruise Line, had been completely refurbished in February, 2003 and was ready and waiting for its newest contingent of passengers.  Here she rests at our port of call in Ushuaia, Argentina.

Embarkation was anything but smooth.  Once on board we faced another long line.  At the end we picked up our cabin keys and quickly found our quarters.  Our bags were waiting!  (Forgive this negative start, but it was by far our worst ever and we wanted to prepare those who might take this same journey for what we hope will never happen to them.)  The cruise itself was our best ever!

Steward John from the Philippines came by to introduce himself and arrange our beds to make a double one; an absolute requirement if we are to be happy travelers.  We couldn't have had a better person to attend our needs.

The first night and all the next day and night was spent at sea.  The seas were among the roughest of the entire journey but it did not affect us in the least.  We had been forewarned by a friend who took this same cruise a month before so it was no surprise.  The map below roughly shows the route we traveled.

Since we were too far out to see anything ashore, we took full advantage of the time to get to know the ship, what to expect in the way of lectures and entertainment and enjoy our first experience with Freestyle Cruising.  Norwegian was the first cruise line to offer "Freestyle", having meals whenever it suited you best and at no particular table.  Our earlier apprehensions about eating this way were quickly eliminated and from now on it is our preferred style of dining.

Port of Call, Puerto Montt, Chile

Tuesday morning found us docked at Puerto Montt where we spent the entire day.  This picture shows how it was the day we were there; nice.

I took this picture of a poster in the Welcome Center at dockside.  Puerto Montt is near the extreme lower left side at the water's edge.

We chose not to take any of the optional tours but instead explored the shops near the pier and sent an e-mail report of our adventures since leaving Santiago.  Puerto Montt, like all the other places we stopped, had a number of places from which to e-mail at unbelievably inexpensive rates, $1 for half an hour here in Puerto Montt.

Look who we bumped into while shopping.  Big "Table Number One" buddy Gloria Hubbell of California!

And here Dotty is shopping with friends Bill and Maggie Lacey of Florida.

Port of Call, Puerto Chacabuco, Chile

During Wednesday morning we cruised Canal Darwin then anchored at rainy Puerto Chacabuco at noon.  Tenders ran to and from shore but we opted to stay on board where we took advantage of shipboard activities.  That night we dined with friends Bill and Renate Westland of Florida in Le Bistro, one of the three alternate restaurants.  Our Romanian waitress, at my persuasion, let down her beautiful blond tresses for this picture.  Dotty stands beside one of the trees decorating the ship.

On Thursday we were at sea all day in the Patagonian Channels and Chilean Fjords.  Dotty attended a Yoga class and read.  I worked out in the cabin!

We both attended lectures.  Drs. Philip and Thelma Sktasel each made presentations; he did one on cloning and she one on memory.  They did others as well.  Here they are; a handsome and engaging couple.

Friday was a full day of cruising the Strait of Magellan.  There was lots to see so we spent a good bit of time on deck.  We passed a number of glaciers where the Captain gave us lots of time for pictures.

Over the ship's intercom, Captain Emil Holte described how this shipwreck happened.  It occurred when the Navigator asked if he should steer left and the Captain yelled "right."  In this case he meant correct.  The terms "port" and "starboard" were then mandated aboard ships that had not used it previously.

Port of Call, Punta Arenas, Chile

We arrived in Punta Arenas at around 6 a.m. for the entire day.  After sending an e-mail right off the dock we walked into the center of town.  Dotty was fascinated by this meat shop.

Just down the street we were met by Santa.  He shared some hard candy and we slipped a bill into his hand.  There was another Santa on the opposite side of the street.  We wondered how parents explained this!

This statue of Magellan was in the center of the city park.  It was populated with beautiful trees, vendors and a group of Chileans singing Christmas carols.

It was still very light as we departed Punta Arenas, thank goodness, as the scenery was breathtaking.  Twilight lasted until well after 10 p.m.  These were shots taken after our departure.

Sunday, December 21, was the first day of summer.  What an odd thought for this time of year.  The cool weather made it even more difficult to accept.  Enroute to Ushuaia we cruised the Beagle Channel  and sighted more glaciers.

Port of Call, Ushuaia, Argentina

To see more pictures of Argentina, please click on "Argentina" under "TRAVELS"

That morning I caught one of the many genealogy lectures I attended.  Dotty took another Yoga class, we had lunch then docked at about 2 p.m.  Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and is at approximately the same latitude south as Ketchikan, Alaska, Belfast, Ireland and Copenhagen, Denmark are north.

Ushuaia is where we took the first of our optional tours, a catamaran cruise that we enjoyed for just over five hours.  Even in the choppy waters it was smooth and fast at about 17 knots per hour.

California friends Sharlene and Erwin Loretz enjoyed the tour with us.

As you  can see, it was a cloudy and chilly first day of summer.  Ushuaia lies at the waters edge as seen in this picture.

Our first stop was at a rock populated by thousands of cormorants.

Further up the road we stopped to observe sea lions and seals.  Looks like they were entertained watching tourists as we were watching them.

Finally the penguins; at the very end of our excursion.  Here we spent lots of time bouncing on and off the sandy beach with the accompaniment of wind and a steady sprinkle.  The penguins paid us little attention.

The weather broke for just a bit as we returned to Ushuaia and revealed more of the snow capped mountains.  

It was around 10 p.m. before we got under way.  If I had been driving I would have preferred navigating around all the islands during daylight hours.  Our next destination was Cape Horn, the famous rock at the confluence of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  We arrived there very early in the morning and in weather that our Captain Holte said was better than that of any of his 25 crossings.  

Tradition has it that when you pass from one ocean into another that you shall be "anointed."  We certainly didn't want to break with that tradition.

The weather changed not long after we changed course and headed northeast toward the Falkland Islands.  Ride um cowboy!  Again we managed, with ease, to avoid any discomfort associated with the ship's gyrations.  We were pleased that our "sea legs" were finally taking hold as walking became more of a challenge.

Port of Call, Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

To see pictures of Port Stanley, please click on "Falkland Islands" under "TRAVELS"

Arriving at about 10 a.m. on Tuesday, we soon boarded a tender for the short ride to Port Stanley.  There we loaded aboard one of the many waiting buses to begin our two hour optional tour.  Most of what is on the island is around Port Stanley itself and that can comfortably be seen in a few hours.

Our guide related her experiences during the 1982 Falkland War; the museum, the highlight of the tour, was loaded with pictures, weapons and the likes of that period.  After the tour we enjoyed doing a bit of shopping and looking around in town before boarding the Crown.  The Falklands are about 400 miles east of Argentina and still thought of as belonging to that country.  

We were on our way by 4 p.m., headed northwest toward the coast of Argentina.  It would take from now, two nights and a full day of travel to reach our next port call.  During that time we continued to enjoy lectures and physical conditioning.  This was another of the pretty sunsets we enjoyed.

Christmas Eve was filled with activities; a Christmas show, an hour of Caroling then Mass at 11 p.m.  After Mass we indulged in the Chocolate Buffet and ate too much.  Earlier in the evening we managed to find this beautiful illuminated peacock free of onlookers long enough to snap a picture.  

We captured friends John and Emilie Brady, from Indian River Shores, FL at another decorated spot on the ship. 

Port of Call, Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Arrival at the dock was right on schedule; 7 a.m. Christmas Day, and it was  warm and sunny.  After the exodus of those taking the optional tours we took the shuttle bus down the very long and new pier into town.

While ashore we visited an Internet Shop on one of the side streets and met the nicest couple; the owners.  I cannot understand how they will ever be able to make a go of the business.  They charged only $1 for an hour of usage!  Figure; he paid $500 each for the half dozen or so computers in the place, then rent and other expenses.  Unless Argentina subsidizes businesses like this I don't see how it could possibly turn a profit.  Proud papa Javier and mama Lorena are holding their beautiful son, Felipe.

These shots were taken from town near the pier.  The ship on the right is "The World" and is owned by the owners of each of the apartments.  Imagine sailing from one port to another all year long.  Imagine the cost!

Back on board we had the first opportunity to take pictures of the performers.  Photography was forbidden during all of the ship's evening entertainment sessions.  These performers all came aboard at Port Madryn for this once only show.  We expected the male dancers to break an ankle with their side foot slapping as they maneuvered their rear ends down to the floor.  None did.  They were good!

Friday was a day at sea as we headed for Uruguay.  We enjoyed ourselves attending lectures on geology and genealogy and making new friends there and at meal times.  

Port of Call, Montevideo, Uruguay

To see pictures of Montevideo, please click on "Uruguay" under "TRAVELS"

We arrived at the dock at Montevideo on Saturday morning, just a bit late.  Our two hour optional tour of the city was most interesting.  The city is beautiful with lots of monuments, buildings, tree lined streets and parks.

Our departure from Montevideo that evening marked the final hours of our best ever cruise.  It was difficult packing and saying goodbyes to service personnel in the restaurant and other areas of the ship.

Destination Port, Buenos Aires, Argentina

After a short, but good night's sleep we awakened during docking at about 6 a.m.  After experiencing so many time consuming delays during embarkation we were prepared for more of the same.  Much to our surprise this was the very best disembarkation we had ever experienced.  What a way to end a fun filled two weeks; happy and eager to experience more of Argentina.

Posted on the Internet on 2/23/04, revised 7/14/04.