Holland & Belgium in Springtime 05
Grand Circle Travel
18 Day Tour/River Cruise 2005
April 11 to April 28, 2005
Under TRAVELS, click on "Belgium 05" and "Netherlands 05" for the Post and Pre-Trip extensions of this vacation. Note: "Belgium 05" has not yet been added but will be soon, please check back.
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Dotty and I boarded the MS River Symphony before noon on Friday, April 15 after having enjoyed the three day Pre-Trip extension in Amsterdam.
The Symphony began operating in 1998 but must have been recently refurbished as it was in "like new" condition.
Owned by Grand Circle Travel with an International Crew of 32; Croatia, Serbia, Slovakia, Romania, Hungary, Germany, Austria, and the Netherlands were represented.
Length: 361', Width 38', Gross Tonnage: 1,654 tons,
Cruising speed: 12.4 miles per hour downstream, 8.7 mph upstream.
Passengers: Maximum 140 (we had 134) in 70 cabins.
Cruise Dates: April 15 - 25, 2005 (includes three days in Brussels)
Our cabin was number 409 on the Serenade deck (red X) and our Cabin Stewardess was Maria whose home country is Slovakia.
Friday's schedule was posted in the lobby. Since lunch wasn't until 1 p.m. I decided to snap a few pictures of the dining room. Um looks good!!
Departure from Amsterdam was just after 5 p.m. Captain Manfred Mertens from Germany handled the steering. Next is an air cushion vehicle that ferries passengers in the area, then some of Amsterdam's buildings. Last is our first lock, one of many on the journey. The Dutch are masters at water control!
The map below depicts our journey through the Netherlands and Belgium. Click on it for a larger map. One of the many ships we passed along the way that evening was this beauty.
We enjoyed a fun filled dinner with friends Roland and Laurel Minch and their long time friends who had joined the trip at the ship.
There was time after dinner for some pictures so I captured these two. Another lock then a highway that was tunneled under the river.
Docking in Enkhuizen was at about 9 p.m.; sleep followed shortly thereafter.
We were up early and prepared for the day. Here's what it looked like.
Click to enlarge. Note that Enkhuizen is our northernmost destination.
The walking stroll of ancient Enkhuizen carried us through a major part of this port town of some 17,000 residents. It was established between 1000 and 1200 AD and became a city in 1355. In the 17th century, it prospered as a herring fishing industry and boasted the largest herring fleet in Holland.
Disembarking, with Dotty looking back. A light drizzle didn't dampen the enthusiasm of our guide, Joke (pronounced Yoke) Appelo-Laan. Canals are throughout the town.
Enkhuizen was filled with historic buildings; this cat undoubtedly wanted in. Next is the fine Baroque style City Hall. At right is one of the most magnificent towers in the Netherlands; De Drommedaris. It dates back to 1540. Notice the small draw bridge in the last picture.
Talk about water front property! It's a port town and loaded with boats and ships. Benches in front of the building awaited the weary. They sure do trim their trees in interesting ways.
A beautifully manicured yard! Local statues. Leaning buildings go with the territory. Sometimes the wooden piles just break down. A larger perspective of the town.
Before walking back to the ship we stopped for a visit at the Binnen (indoor) Zuiderzeemuseum. Dotty is standing at the inside entrance. These were just a few of the interesting exhibits. It would have been nice, had we sufficient time, to visit the outdoor section.
After lunch on board the ship we listened to an interesting lecture on "Modern Holland." The speaker covered taxes, which are quite high; 42% plus for incomes above 68,000 Euro and 62% plus for those with the highest incomes. Health care is free unless your income is more than 42,000 Euro and then you must pay for the insurance costs which can be around 12,000 Euro per year. From the description of benefits for the young, elderly, unemployed, pensioners, mothers on maternity leave, and others it is not surprising that the government is unable to keep within its resources.
Housing is a problem, exacerbated by more than three million immigrants. Transportation and its cost is significant, forcing some who live a distance from their work to rent apartments as a less expensive alternative. Education is highly subsidized and we were surprised to learn that there are some all black schools. In spite of the negative aspects of the lecture, we found the people to look and act happy and living in relative affluence. Everywhere we traveled there were signs of respect for others and property; particularly evident in the clean streets.
Following the lecture we departed for the Home Hosted visit and how fortunate we were to have Joke as our host. Eleven of us joined her at the docks and walked to her home not far away. There we enjoyed refreshments, seeing her home, learning about her family, and living in Enkhuizen.
Pictured inside is Lucy Pinales (CA,) Joke and Dotty. Next, Joke is between Dotty and Lucy's mom, Rosa Diaz. What a treat to be entertained by Joke in her lovely and comfortable home. Thank you Joke!
Upon returning to the ship we had time to freshen up before going to a brief port talk. Immediately thereafter we were treated to a local group who performed folklore dances in native costumes. The musicians played enthusiastically!
Naturally they got audience participation. Roland Minch (PA,) was almost as good as the professionals! Barbara Blomerley (FL,) Dick Stradtman (IN,) and Joan Clinch (MD) were right at home. Waitress Daniela (Slovakia) had fun joining in with the lady who was demonstrating her clothing.
Would you believe after all this that we had a Welcome Drink on the Captain then proceeded to the dining room for the Captain's Welcome Dinner. A nice evening!
Our ship launched for Amsterdam as soon as we sat down and arrived before midnight in the midst of a driving rain. It sure made for good sleeping.
Sunday morning the sun was shining but it didn't last long. At least it was nice to see it for a change. Our schedule for today was a full one.
We left the ship in buses for the departure point for our Canal Cruise of Amsterdam. The left picture is of another boat identical to the one we took. Click on the pictures for larger ones and the names in our group. The canal guide was local and knew something about everything we saw. It was a different perspective for those of us who had already seen the canals from land and was the only view of Amsterdam that those who had not taken the Pre-Trip experienced.
Canal space rental is very high and of course maintenance is constant. This lady appeared to be doing her own. Interesting that Amsterdam is three to four meters below sea level.
The house at left is the Mayor's official residence. Please see the larger picture to appreciate the beautiful sculptures at the top of the second building. You can also see the leaning of the buildings in the third picture better. Most structures were old but occasionally you would see more modern ones.
At the end of the cruise we disembarked at Gassan Diamonds for an explanation of cutting and quality. Amsterdam has been a leader in diamonds since the 16th century. The world's largest (Cullinan at 3,106 carats) and the world's smallest (0.00012 carats with 57 facets) diamonds were cut in Amsterdam.
We boarded buses to drive us to a new location as our ship had sailed after we departed. The sights along our route were beautiful! These folks were enjoying leisurely conversation in the small town we passed. Isn't the horse a handsome one! I just wouldn't have thought of leading a horse on a bicycle.
The two other groups met us on the Rhine Canal to catch our ship. That's Dotty with Roland and Eileen Thibault (MA.) Naturally we were required to practice for an emergency, and we did soon after boarding. Click on these for larger pictures that have the names.
Before arriving at our destination, the Captain met with us in the lounge to describe the ship and navigation through the canals and rivers. At Nijmegen (SE of Amsterdam near German boundary) we disembarked for a walking tour. Its population is about 150,000 and it is the oldest city in the Netherlands. Dating back more than 2,000 years, many of the buildings date to medieval times. Children everywhere seem fascinated by visitors; these were no different.
The town is situated at the top of a hill. Three of our fellow travelers, Delores Tomaszewski (IL,) Jesus Diaz and daughter Lucy Pinales (CA) are on their way up to the highest elevation, 91 feet. What a beautiful building, and old as well. The statue in the square was a favorite for children to play on, including the one at right.
Today is Sunday and it's after 6 p.m. when these pictures were taken. Folks do seem to know how to party. Our group is gathered inside an old convent enclave. That's Bob and Jo Ann Wagstaff (PA) at the Cathedral arch with the unusual sculpture of a black devil at the top of the arch.
After dinner we were entertained by a local group, the Shanty Choir. It had been a long day with lots of interesting things to dream about so sleep came easy.
After having spent the night docked in Nijmegen, Monday April 18, provided us with our first opportunity to catch some rest. Others took in the Optional Liberation Museum visit while we sailed to Gornichem.
Lunch was aboard ship then we departed from Gornichem by bus to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kinderdijk. Along the way we passed lots of pastoral scenes.
The Dutch struggled with frequent floods until around 1740 when 19 windmills were built at Kinderdijk (23 km from Rotterdam.) The windmills were created to drain excess water from the polders, reclaimed land that was below sea level, and pump it into nearby rivers and canals. Over 1,000 exist today. A gift shop at the site provided comfort from the wind and rain. It was packed with tourists!
Modern diesel engines such as this one at Kinderdijk do the job today. At full capacity, they can pump a total of 360,000 gallons of water per minute. An electric station nearby can pump 400,000 gallons per minute.
Back on board, those of us that were Inner Circle members enjoyed free cocktails. After our Port briefing for the next day we enjoyed another great meal. Jaro, our waiter from Slovakia who is the boyfriend of Maria, our Cabin Stewardess, helped serve during cocktail hour.
We managed to get a good picture of Captain Mertens and our Red Group Program Director Inge Bovee (Netherlands) before dinner. Inge was with our Pre-Trip group and stayed with us through the Post-Trip. She was great!
Tuesday was to be the highlight of the entire trip; a visit to the famous Keukenhof Flower Park (about 20 miles west of Amsterdam.) We had sailed during the night and were now in Rotterdam where a bus took us to Keukenhof (literally translated, "Kitchen Garden".) Some from the ship took the very early (6:15) Optional tour to the Aalsmeer Flower Auction before going to Keukenhof.
All along the way were fields filled with tulips in bloom. These shots were taken from our moving bus but I believe you can grasp the beauty and expanse of the fields. We were surprised to see cultivation being done by hand.
As usual, there are opportunities to spend money even before getting inside. Dave Jones (OH) is ready! The tunnel to Keukenhof. Lines moved quickly. Inside, this young lady was there to personally welcome me. The park is only open from March through May of each year; we were there at the peak of the season.
Situated on 77 wooded acres; it is breathtaking! A far cry from the time that part of the area had been a mere kitchen garden of a medieval castle. Landscape architect Louis Paul Zocher (NL) was invited to design a garden in 1857. Inspired by the English landscape style, he created the basic plan for the Keukenhof of today.
Keukenhof was established in 1949 by a group of about 90 bulb growers with the objective of creating a showcase for the bulb profession. While there are more than seven million tulips this year, there is a variety of other flowers as well.
The blue Muscari flowers flow like a river. Formal gardens were in a number of locations. This gentlemen is arranging flowers in the Oranje Nassau Pavilion, one of the six pavilions.
This is the entrance to the Prince Willem Alexander Pavilion. One could spend hours in this pavilion alone marveling over the variety and beauty of its contents.
At left is one of Dotty's favorite pictures. She is beside some other beauties. The ducks were tame and beautiful as was this strutting albino Peacock.
Friends captured this shot of us in front of the windmill at the park. We climbed up to the observation deck to take the second picture of a tulip field just beyond. Dotty is beside fellow travelers Alice and Del Jacobson (CA), both in their 80s (we don't believe it) and still enthusiastic about seeing the world. What an inspiration they are! Check out the wooden shoes in the larger picture.
The Beatrix Pavilion was dedicated to orchids only. These are just four of 30 pictures I took in this one pavilion. It was a difficult task to pick from among so many beautiful specimens.
After departing the Beatrix Pavilion we walked down "Beech Tree Lane," more than 150 years old. This lady was enjoying the comedy afforded by the statue. The swans were at the end of the lane and near the entrance. Waving at the exit are Roy and Harriet Lounsbury (VA) with Ottie Jones (OH) looking on.
At the end of the short season all bulbs are removed and most destroyed. Preparations begin immediately thereafter for the next season. The day at Keukenhof was one filled with the exhilaration of being a part of nature's beauty.
Our day was not yet over as we were treated to a cruise of Rotterdam Harbor for several hours. These were some of the more interesting buildings along our route. There was lots of traffic on this, the world's second largest port (Shanghai is first.) Rotterdam is the second largest city in the Netherlands with a population of about 600,000.
After dinner we were entertained by this musical combo. I believe we might have danced; once.
The Symphony set sail at about 1 a.m. and headed for Middleburg, in the southwest corner of the Netherlands. The schedule is for April 20.
Middleburg, the capital of the province of Zeeland, is only 2 feet above sea level and has about 40,000 residents. It was bombed heavily in 1940 but it has been restored. Before the sun up and docking I took these pictures enroute.
Restoration certainly looked successful. In the third picture, note the timbers extending over the top windows. They were used to hoist objects to that level. Many buildings slop outward at the top so that things being hoisted do not scar the face of the building. The statue honors an important lady.
We were impressed with the neatness and architecture of the town. Bike racers were given right of way! A business entrepreneur set up to sell flowers.
In the heart of Middleburg is a restored abbey founded by Norbertine monks in 1127. Its 300 foot tower is visible from far away. The abbey has been the seat of Government of Zeeland since the 16th century when Prince William of Orange overthrew the religious power. The Town Hall pictured at right was built in 1452 but restorations in 1775 and 1927 severely changed the original character. Nonetheless, it is considered one of the most beautiful in the Netherlands.
This little girl sure did find us amusing. She kept leaving her mom, at left, and turning around to look at us. The local Hema store where Dotty just had to check out the merchandise. She did buy some of the Flessen Lirrers (jar scraper) as gifts (see April 20 schedule for a drawing.) Larry is able to relax! What a shame the female wasn't real.
That afternoon some took the Optional Tour of the Delta Project. Instead I worked on my laptop on some of the hundreds of pictures I'd taken while Dotty read and relaxed. As we departed for Antwerp I took these shots of the canal from our cabin deck.
At dinner, we were privileged to eat with the exclusive group of friends. From left, Jo Ann and Bob Wagstaff (PA,) Rie Gentzler (AZ,) Bonnie Lee (FL,) Keith Gentzler (FL,) Cory Pearson (FL,) Dotty Brown and Guy Larry Brown (VA.) Another of the delicious and exquisitely presented meals!
After dinner the ship's crew put on a show for us. And what a show it was! Waiter Jaro (Slovakia) plays a monk while members of the Housekeeping Staff dressed as nuns. Waiter "Mr. Martin" (Croatia) and Hotel Manager Shazia Bepler. One of the cooks is seated while a shipmate is waiting on him. Members of Housekeeping Staff performing a skit.
Captain Mertens singing for us. Daniela, waitress from Slovakia showing her stuff. The remainder of the crew line performing to the music of "Twelve Days of Christmas." In the last picture some of the crew are performing to the guitar music of Fred Pot, Senior Program Director (Netherlands.) Inge is wearing the scarf.
When the audience participation began, Daniela grabbed me to join in the line of revelers. I've saved a spot at the end in case someone took a picture. Hotel Manager Rudolph Van Der Meulen is dancing with Hotel Manager Shazia. Dotty is strutting like a pro! In the last picture Barbara and Peter Blomerley join a black outfitted staff member. That's Roland and Laurel Minch on the right side.
This was our schedule for April 21 and the map showing our final port, Antwerp, Belgium.
After breakfast we did a walking tour of this major port and center for finance, industry, and diamond trade. There are about 455,000 inhabitants and it is the largest Flemish-speaking city in Belgium. Just down from our ship along the water was this well preserved castle. The next picture, also near the water, is a good contrast between the new and old. Our guide knew the city well.
The Town Hall (constructed 1561-1565) in the Old Town is covered with pictures representing people of the world.
These magnificent buildings were just opposite the Town Hall. They date back to the 16th and 17th centuries when the address of a building was designated by a sculpture or some other prominent feature. Note the beautiful sculptures atop these.
The Cathedral of Our Lady was begun in 1352 and was added to and rebuilt over the years. Fire and plundering took its toll.
The stained glass windows were as beautiful as any we had ever seen.
We were awed at the paintings from some of the masters of the time and surprised that flash photography was not restricted. Because of the sheer number of paintings you would have thought you were in a museum instead of a church. At left is Rubens' "The descent from the cross." Identity of the second picture is unremembered. "The death of the Virgin" by Abraham Matthyssens is next and the last is Rubens' "The raising of the cross."
Children and other interesting subjects always catch the camera's eye! That's Peter Blomerley and Roland Minch pretending not to look at the passing ladies.
After Disembarkation and Post-Trip briefings we were given a port talk for Brussels and then enjoyed Farewell Drinks. Our three Program Directors joined Hotel Manger Shazia and Captain Mertens for this picture. That's Inge Bovee at left then Fred Pot and Anita Jaric at far right. Inge and Anita continued with our Post-Trip.
For the final dinner aboard ship Dotty and I were invited to sit with the Captain, Hotel Manager Shazia Bepler, George and Jane Burns (NJ) at table end, Program Director Fred Pot, Anna Hein (NY,) and Ruth Andl (NY.) Yummy!
The staff paraded in to grateful applause with our flaming baked Alaska desert.
We bid farewell to two of our favorite servers after dinner.
Fellow traveler Roland Minch (PA) performed his famous "Animated Bigwig Show" following dinner then Dotty and I captured Inge for a photo.
Departure on Friday, April 22 went as scheduled. It was sad to depart what had been an excellent cruise, all 368 miles. Guy Larry hugs waitress Daniela and Hotel Director Rudolph embraces Harriet Lounsbury. Grand Circle Travel met or exceeded our expectations at every turn. Would we recommend this trip? You bet we do; most highly!
Three buses took us on a short journey to Brussels, capital of Belgium. Headquarters of NATO, it is also of the increasingly important European Union. Upon arrival we began a city tour with a stop at the The Royal Museum of the Army and Military History, beside the Cinquantenaire Arch.
Inside the aviation part of the museum were four aircraft that I had flown a significant number of hours. The left picture has two; the one on the floor is similar to the North American SNJ that I took my initial flight training in. Hanging is the Lockheed TV in which I took my first jet training flight 50 years ago. My first squadron was Marine Fighter Squadron (VMF 232,) flying the North American made Fury (second picture) and based in Hawaii. It was there I met and married Dotty in 1957. The helicopter, Sikorsky Sea Horse (UH-34,) is one I flew in Vietnam on more than 300 combat missions. I moved lots of troops but never anything like the bathing suit clad lady on the hoist.
The drive through the city included the ???, the impressive China Pavilion, and the Atomium, a steel structure representing an iron atom. It was being refurbished when we stopped there for a photo op.
We were checked in at the Hilton Brussels on Waterloo Boulevard by noon. It was comfortable and recently renovated. Lots of upscale shopping was available in the area. We enjoyed the statues across from the hotel. Dinner that night in the hotel dining room.
Schedule for Saturday, April 23.
First stop for our included Discovery Series Saturday morning was a Lace shop. Brussels is widely known for its delicate lace. Dotty listens as one of the guides explains these tapestries. We men became restless and drifted aimlessly about.
Not far away we visited the Brussels equivalent of a back home Flea Market. Dotty enjoyed looking and I found this dog beautiful.
Next stop was a visit to a Chocolate factory, another of Belgium's specialties. Dotty at the entrance of family-run Chocolaterie Duval and trees just down a bit.
The "Chocolate Man" explains to us, in perfect English and using pictures, the entire process of making chocolate. From the bean to the box! The chief cook demonstrated filling the chocolate molds then our own Lucy Pinales (CA) shows the rest of us how easy it is to add a filling.
Naturally they served us chocolate samples. They were about the size of a 50cent piece and were white, brown, and dark varieties. Click to see the larger pictures for clearer detail. Dotty just couldn't pass up the opportunity to buy some for gifts and our own pleasure. And what pleasure it provided! That's Delores Tomaszewski (IL) at right front.
There was an optional tour to the ancient Flemish town of Lier in the afternoon but since our Post-Trip extension was to the ancient town of Bruges we didn't go on this one. We did attend Mass across the street. It was in French but still we understood the Mass.
Schedule for Sunday, April 24.
The hotel buffet breakfast, served on the top (27th) floor, each morning was good. The views of the city were great. At left is the impressive Palace of Justice. Next is a church and the U shaped building is a former palace.
After breakfast, Dotty and I joined friends Bill and Lois Nelson (NY) to take the subway to the Grand Place, famed market square and heart of medieval Brussels. The third picture shows details of the the second one.
These were just a few of the many buildings dating from medieval times. As you can see, it was crowded the day we were there. Being Sunday it was no surprise.
Guy Larry rubs, for good luck, as everyone else visiting the icon seems to have done. The Manneken - PIS (1619) is a legendary figure originating in Brussels but whose glory has spread world wide. Bill Nelson and me in front. Dotty about to go in and check on the interesting merchandise.
Closer examination of the building at the left reveals a Santa climbing up a rain drain, burdened with neatly wrapped packages. We enjoyed a nice lunch outside the "La Legende" restaurant. The waitress didn't get the name of the place when she snapped the picture for us so I had to resort to taking one of their napkins to help recall the name.
At precisely 5:53 we assembled on the 26th floor for a Farewell Drink(s) and light refreshments. It was a final opportunity to say goodbye to those who wouldn't be going on the Post-Trip extension with us. In the left picture are Harriet and Roy Lounsbury (VA.) Next are Dick and Jane Stradtman (IN.) Third are Marine Jim and Barbara Dirlam (MN.) Fellow Virginians Betty and John Herringshaw are in the right picture.
NY buddies are Linda Ronayne and Mary Ann Ryan. Frank and Joanna Jones from CA are in the second picture and Dave and Ottie Jones (OH) in the third. Next are Bill and Barbara Clark (WA.) We met everyone in this series the very first day in Amsterdam.
At left is a wild and fun group we enjoyed. After me and Dotty from left are Madge and Bob Mcguigan (KS,) Carole and Charlie Taylor (TX,) and Carol and Jerry Russell (OK.) Nearby ship cabin mates were Stan and Cecilia Latimer (CA.) Another fun group contained "about to wed" Cory Pearson and Bonnie Lee (FL,) Keith and Rie Gentzler (AZ,) and former Virginians but now (PA) Jo Ann and Bob Wagstaff.
It has been more than a month since we saw these and our other fellow travelers and we've missed you all! Thanks for being such an important part of this exciting experience. Please stay in touch.
The two buses for those of us departing for Bruges left according to schedule on the last day of this portion of the trip. Others departed for home.
Please check out "Netherlands 05" and "Belgium 05" which represent the Pre and Post-Trip parts of our Holland & Belgium in Springtime Tour/Cruise.
Posted on the Internet on 6/12/05, minor revisions 6/13/05