The Falkland Islands 03
Chilean Fjords and Magellan Strait
Grand Circle Travel
21 Day South American Tour/Cruise 2003
December 11 to January 1, 2004
Under TRAVELS, click under CRUISES, South America 03, Chile, Uruguay and Argentina for other parts of this three week vacation.
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Our ship, the Norwegian Crown, dropped anchor near Port Stanley, Falkland Islands at 9 a.m. on Tuesday, December 23. We had a smooth ride aboard tender boats to shore. Port Stanley is approximately 500 miles east of the coast of Argentina. It lies on a latitude south that is approximately the same as London, England lies on the north.
The terrain is rather bare of vegetation, especially trees and is rolling in character. Mt. Usborne is 2,313 feet in elevation and is the highest point in all the islands. It waters are rich with fish and birds.
The weather forecast was for 56F with showers and wind. I think they got it right! Temperatures seldom reach 70F but it is reported that the temperature has never fallen below 12F. Some snow or rain can be expected to fall about 250 days a year. The Island's "Penguin News", a Tourist Guide warns: "It might look like a nice day, but it could turn nasty very quickly."
Upon arrival at the dock we boarded our waiting buses for our two hour optional tour of the area near Port Stanley. This is where the greatest concentration of people reside, a little over 2,000 of the total Islands population of about 3,000. Most are of Scottish and English decent. The English have occupied the islands continuously since 1833. This is a picture of the capital city, the smallest and most remote capital in the world, taken from afar.
Consisting of hundreds of small islands, there are just two large ones, the total land area is about the same size as Connecticut. This shot of the shore presents a beach more fit for fish and birds than humans although we saw a few in wet suits. Sheep farming and the export of wool have been the major contributors to the economy; more than 600,000 graze on the nearly 90 farms that are typically family operated .
These pictures were taken just outside town and were typical of the houses we saw during our short tour.
Only about five percent of the inhabitants heat with peat; our bus guide was one of those who still does. There is lots of it on the island. It looks like plowed furrows in one of the fields below then in another shot you can see pieces of peat left to dry before hauling away.
Aren't these the nicest looking folks? They are new friends, Dot and Terry Thrift from San Antonio. Turns out they live just down the street from one of my Flight School buddies, Bob Kotzebue.
There were numerous old ships rusting away in the coves. Heaven only knows how long they had been there.
A leftover from the 1982 War with Argentina was this post which had distance markers to various cities throughout the world. It is reputed to be the most photographed place on the island.
All along the shore there was evidence of the war; mine fields still hot. Seems that they are almost impossible to remove from the peat as they continue to sink deeper as time passes. They are all clearly marked and the citizens are frequently reminded of the dangers.
This young man was the guide's grandson and a hero on the island for having found a live mortar round and reported it.
One of the more interesting stops along our route was this house owned by a man who had become an outspoken critic of killing whales. The bones and signs beside them left, in no uncertain terms, that whales should not be killed.
He also had a pet reindeer that was friendly with everyone.
Check out these whale bones!
Our guide had lived through the 1982 War while pregnant with a daughter. Both survived the ordeal but our guide lost 30 pounds during that period. She described it as being tense at best.
The highlight of our tour was the small, but jam packed, Falklands Museum. Dotty is at the entrance and beside a penguin on display inside.
On the left below is a display of what a General Store would have looked like in the 1930s. Next is a drawing showing the progression of the building of the Government House over the years. The Governor resides in the one pictured. On the right is the beautiful musical German "Symphonion", built in 1896. It was destroyed during the war but reconstructed with lots of time and TLC. Music created by the circular metal disks was impressive. You can see one of the disks inside and another along the right hand wall.
One of the small rooms was dedicated to the war with this display of weapons used during the 1982 War.
Argentina invaded the islands on April 2 and surrendered on June 15. When it ended, 750 Argentines and 250 British soldiers had been killed. The war involved land, sea and air engagements with nearly all of the land combat restricted to the northern half of East Falkland Island. This map shows some of the troop movements and disposition of troops.
Below are some of the artistic impressions of action during the conflict.
Our tour continued past one of the local schools; notice the horses grazing.
In town we of course visited the Capstan Gift Shop and the West Store Complex across the street. Prices were as you might imagine, rather high.
One of the prettier structures was this church with its whale bone arch.
As our ship departed we passed this Jigger, a boat designed for the sole purpose of catching squid. It was part of the Falklands fleet of some 28 ocean going vessels. License fees on these ships are responsible for significant revenues for the Falkland Islands Government. Squid fishing is done primarily at night when the squid are attracted by powerful lights.
Our visit to this remote location was brief but we left with an appreciation for those who treasure its advantages in spite of a hostile climate and isolation.
Posted on the Internet on 2/27/04